Sunday, April 29, 2012

Now for a more technical contribution


Now for a more technical contribution

I can sit back now and reflect on quite a journey. We have been in Opua for 3 nights and are getting quite used to the land! For us the trans Tasman journey was psychologically the big one. Never off shore for more than a few days across the English Channel or up the Queensland coast.
Stats: 10 days 17 hours, 1525.1 nm A longer journey than our advisor Predictwind estimated [9days] by 250nm.
It started with an agonizing wait of 6 days in Eden. Two fronts came through in quick succession; the latter was associated with the events of the Port Fairy race. With next to no space on the wharf and a SE wind direction life was a little difficult. A few days spent at anchor unable to get in and a couple of hairy moments on the wharf didn’t help. So we were glad to clear and leave shortly afterwards on the 11th April.
Good winds from the S with a big sea were associated with progress and we logged 314nm for the first 48 hours. Then the high seemed to catch us and we had variable or no winds for 2 days and despite being the early stages we resorted to motoring at 4 - 5 knots, including one spell of 24 hours. The left over slop and no wind was too much for ones sanity. Then the wind returned with much variability, rain and a few squalls, but the direction was N or NE.
A review of the weather routing had us some way behind their prediction and a new route with a more southerly passage advised. Anne didn’t like the heading away from our target and with light winds, so we made some northerly progress - probably the wrong decision.
We sailed on the wind for the last 4 days, not a comfortable experience. The northern tip of New Zealand didn’t get any closer especially as the VMG was at best 3 knots! The engine remained for battery charging but at least there was no problem with water or food. With the constant beating to windward our appetites were poor though mine had significantly improved from the starvation of the first 2 days. Yes the bands and drugs had not won against the motion of the seas!
As Cape Reinga closed finally a few ships were sighted, most of our journey was witnessed by no one but the occasional seabirds. The dreaded Cape Reinga is where the Tasman meets the Pacific, and now a 20 to 25 knot easterly on the nose! The expected big seas made progress difficult to say the least and spirits slumped with the onset of darkness. The Volvo came in for some help with motor sailing past the top. Spirits lifted and we started full sailing again expecting a nice reach after passing North Cape. No such luck the wind was more SE and we spent the next 24 hours beating down to the Bay of Islands. The weather was beautiful but that doesn’t help one when the line of sight distance is 75nm and we actually sailed 140!!
We arrived into Paradise Bay at 0320 exhausted but manic and now the time for our champagne! 2 hours sleep and we motored into Opua and the quarantine breakwater. The formalities were quite straightforward and not long before we were in our berth – the home for the next 7 days. Opua is great, all the services you could want and a very pretty location. However, the intenet connection is poor so we troup off to the laundry at night for the better reception.
Looking back our barometer wasn’t wrong it was an amazing high 1038! No really serious weather, just a slow uncomfortable passage. Wasn’t I told cuisers never go to windward!
Tonga awaits and we set sail on Tuesday with hopefuly a following breeze. Next post Tonga.

Clocking 7000 Nautical Miles


Clocking 7000 Nautical Miles

It’s a dark night in the cockpit, my watch from 11pm until 2am in the morning. Initially I find it hard to differentiate the sea from the sky. No stars or moon shine to reflect off the rolling waves. The sea is a dark, steal grey heaving gently under the hull of Dreamweaver. It washes beneath the stern, a plume of white bubbles rushing from below and disappearing into the distance. On the occasion that the bow breaks through the water, a spray of green, accentuated by the illuminating glow of the starboard navigation light shines at the bow. It’s a gentle motion on a gentle sea with soft winds pushing us along into the night.

I sit at the rear of the cockpit. It’s not cold but there is dampness in the air at this hour of the night. My wet weather gear with its warming collar pushed up around my ears. Time passes, a look at the watch and 30 minutes has gone. How doing what? The sails are set with little need to change and the two wheels twist one way and then the other as “Georgina’ the auto helm does her stuff, attuned to the breeze and steering effortlessly. I sit between these two wheels looking through the gap between Bimmini and Dodger, watching the changing grey’s go by .The wind lifts a little and Dreamweaver surges forward, more noise, more white bubbles and more green spray at the bow. Short lasting, things quiet and another 30 minuets has passed. Roger and Jonathan asleep below resting waiting the hour until it’s their turn to sit and watch the hour clock pass.

Three small dials glow with a yellow light. I find myself staring at their screens. The first with a round face showing the boats angle to the wind. The needle bobbing up and down 60degrees an easy beat, the strength only 10 knots. It momentarily rises a little, 15 knots more bubbles, more green spray. In front of where I am sitting another dial, my link with “Georgina’, the course we hope to steer and the one we actually are. Roger’s words “don’t let her helm above 100 degrees”. I watch but that’s not our bearing. Lastly our speed. At 13 knots of wind we manage 8.2 knots of speed in these flat waters.  This seems fast moving compared to being becalmed earlier in the day.

I keep looking at the log. I have been anticipating this moment all through my watch. I don’t want to miss it, at last the log clocks over 7000nm sailed on Dreamweaver. So much water under the hull of such a small boat, but with more to pass until this journey is complete.

The moment has passed only 30 more minuets to go and then time to rouse Jonathan from his slumbers. Another watch completed.

New Zealand Bound Across The Tasman Sea


New Zealand Bound Across The Tasman Sea

We finally kept our date with Allanah our friendly customs official and cleared out of Eden at 9am on the 11th April. There would be no going back from here unless we went through the hassles of re entry quarantine inspections etc on the boat so we were ready to go at last. A sense of anticipation for the long trip and anxieties over what the weather had in store but on the whole we were happy to leave the Eden wharf and crumbling fishing boats behind. The sky was blue, with patches of white cloud and winds of 18 to 20 knots, sails were set for a broad reach across the Tasman Sea.

At 10nm out from Eden the sky started to look grey, seas became larger and the wind strength increased. This was not as predicted by BOM or the software routing program Predict Wind, I guess it must be that 40% larger, stronger or higher stated at the beginning of every forecast. By 5pm we had seriously foreboding skies, 5m seas at least and winds gusting up to 33knots!! I thought we had made enough offerings to the wind Gods but may be not. I hoped it wasn’t going to be like this for 6 plus days. Helming in the dark was akin to taking a very long Wet and Wild ride with white water in all directions or skiing in a white out and only your feet feeling the motion under you. By this stage we had 2 reefs in the main and a postage stamp up for a head sail and we were still making 9 knots across the water!

 In the distance there was a sense of hope for a weather change. The last sighting of Australia showed sunlight through a slit in a darkening night sky and with the knowledge that this was heading our way; it helped to calm the apprehension on board as night darkness fell over the Tasman.

We altered our watch pattern with 2 persons on deck at all times with one resting for 2 hours. It was comforting to know you’re not on your own as white water appears to boil around the boat. As so often seems to happen with the progression of night the winds began to loose their strength and the seas calmed. Stars began to appear through the cloud and a bright golden moon shown on the water, the Southern Cross stood out from the rest on a bright lit night. By morning we had a ‘balmy’ 15 to 20 knots from the starboard quarter which allowed us to pole out the headsail and begin to enjoy the experience. We covered 170nm in our first 24 hours the benefit of such a wild ride.

Tuesday, April 10, 2012

Still In Eden

Well we're still at anchor in Eden though we plan to leave tomorrow if the wind Gods lessen their grip on the place. We have been at several different locations, the wharf from which we made a hasty retreet under strong winds yesterday, at anchor over on the opposite shore in Fisheries Beach which was very pretty and again back in Snug Cove under the cliffs and gums. Our plan today had been to clear out of customs and leave however, with winds blowing at over 30 knots we thought the tender might become airborn or swomped as we attenpted to get to shore! Maybe not such a good a look for ocean going yachties having to get rescued by the water police whilst on our way to clear customs!

We feel we know Allanah our friendly customs lady well, despite standing her up on several occasions. 8.30 tomorrow morning seems to be our next appointment. I offered her our fish and chip order yesterday in compensation for standing her up. We could wait no longer in the queue, despite paying! Strong winds and wharf versus yacht not a hard guess as what would have come off worse! I'm not sure if she collected them though!

Fingers crossed for good winds and calmer seas in the morning and hopefully we will be on our way again.

Friday, April 6, 2012

Arrival at Eden

Arrival at Eden

The remaining part of our journey to Eden has been easy sailing with gentler conditions and benign seas. Our list of repairs has increased with a broken hatch cover to the fore deck strong young men at work! Thanks to the net a new one has been ordered and will be delivered asap! We have had a few birds hitch a ride on the way with one very checky fellow investigating every nook and crevice for something to eat. The Shearwaters have danced on the wave tops gliding effortlessly on the breeze and larger birds flocks of Gannets have dived into the sea for fish. Time to see all this in benign conditions. We arrived into Eden at 9pm and laid anchor, this was an easy trip in most respects.

The following morning we moved alongside the wharf and had our first encounter with the Yorkshire dictator! A live aboard who has resided here for 18 months and controls who goes where and who gets to use any power points. Yes, we all pay the same rate $5 a day (pretty cheap) but he has changed the marine plugs for a domestic power board which he controls! He supplied us briefly with a power lead that would fit but then removed this asap saying we had allowed this to fall into the water shorting out the jetty!! I don't think this was so, it was all about his control of the wharf environment! The boys felt I did a grand job at placating the situation and should change jobs into international diplomacy.

 We were also up against a very ropey old fishing boat that appeared in danger of sinking. It hadn't moved for 2 years and when Jonathan snorkeld below he found it was the best reef around with massive scallops and mussels attached! Last night with a strong change forcast we moved off into the bay and anchored, concerned that slapping up against the sides of this old boat may not be the best for Dreamweavers gelcoat! We escaped the wharf dictator.

We have had an eventful repair program!! We managed to get the sail repaired by hiring a car and driving to see a slightly alternative but very helpful women who sewed from her garage at home. The broken hatch was relocated to a less stategic location and 4 spinlock jammers serviced but that's another story! We also fixed the electric connections to a light that snapped off whilst undoing a part of the ceiling that was  removed to get to the jammers. My fault as I refused to hold it up for 4 hours! The toilet was also over hauled with a couple of bits replaced. Rogers normal job seems very simple and mundane when compared to a life living on a boat.


Any how it looks like were are here until Tuesday and then watch out New Zealnd we are heading your way next!

Rounding the Prom'

Wilsons Prom' justified it's description as Victorias windiest  spot as always! With gusts up to 25 knots and the direction changing to on the nose we reefed the main and reduced the size of the head sail. We had intended just to use the first reefing line however, the sheet pull the the eyelet out of the sail meaning it was down to no 2!! Great fun in the dark and with wood smoke from burning off on the Prom mixing with the excitment. Visability reduced and numerous AIS shipping targets coming towards us some as close as 1 nm!! Tension was extreme with all hands on deck as we passed Rodondo Island!!!

The next morning the wind abated the sunrise was magnificent and Bass Straight seemed a much friendlier and gentlier place. Now having to motor sail with flat calm seas dolphins in the bow waves and the various shades of blue merging on the horizon, a new day ahead and the first repairs of the trip to organize in Eden!

Thursday, April 5, 2012

Cast Off

APRIL 2nd 2012 This is the day that we embarked on Dreamweaver bound, eventually, we hope for the Bay of Islands in New Zealand and a Rally to the Pacific. It sounds to easy to say, we cast off our mooring lines in pen 211 for the last time and sailed out of the marina at 0200am in the hope of catching slack water at the heads at 0840. For this is a journey that began at the end of our last voyage up the coastline of Eastern Australia bound on that occasion for Lizard Island Far North Queensland. That adventure made us realize our own sailing capabilities but it acted as a catalyst for another and longer voyage.

We knew we needed to make some additions to Dreamweaver. The list was long and in the end after a couple of years of deliberating some of these have been achieved. We have a stronger engine for the tender - but no new tender, there is now a Tohatsu 5Hp two stroke, a crane to lift it on board, a secondary chart plotter in the cockpit, radar, and importantly a Katadyn water maker which will ensure good quality water wherever we go. (insert your own joke about the Victorian Desal Plant!). We already had solar panels to help with the electricity needs of the boat and have chosen to supplement this with a small one kilowat honda generator. Other areas have bee tweaked, everything that can be checked has been checked, the boat has been antifouled, engine serviced and hopefully everything possible done.

We left the Marina on a still night with a chill in the air and stars above us. Jonathan, Roger and myself contemplating the trip to Eden and on to New Zealand. Some excitement, much apprehension but some relief that we were at last on our way, no work for six months and no more preparation. We exited the heads of Port Phillip Bay without any worries with the exception of avoiding both in and outgoing shipping at the time. One particular bulk carrier seeming intent on motoring as close as he could to the Four Fingers West channel. A gentle broad reach along the coastline past Western Port Bay and heading towards the 'Prom.