Sailing the Island Groups of Tonga

Sailing the Island Groups of Tonga

Tonga is divided into three distinct island groups and there is roughly 65 nm between each of these areas. The islands of Ha’apai are the central archipelago and offer the classic pacific scenery of coral reefs azure blue and turquoise waters dotted with lush islands with fringing coral reefs. These have white sandy beaches and swaying coconut palms. Some have small resorts or villages on them but the many are un-inhabited with the population of Ha’apai being around 8000 people.

The people live an uncomplicated life, poor with very modest homes put together in a ramshackle way, lots and lots of pigs wandering about the place with the occasional goat or cow munching about in the bush. They live on fish and chicken supplemented by canned corned beef sent in from New Zealand and a surfeit of soft drinks. Rubbish is a major problem with much of our western based cans and plastics being left dumped around the villages. I felt the need to start up a clean up Tonga Day much like our clean up Aus day but of course who am I to dictate what should and shouldn’t happen here. However, much of the island group is very beautiful and it was impossible for the above issue to detract from this. In the distance towering peaks of still active volcanoes could be seen and the extensive barrier reefs and shallow lagoons made for good anchorages.

We visited several islands Nomuka’iki which is now uninhabited but was an old prison site. There were few remnants of its past only the plantations of mango trees gave a hint of previous settlement. On the beach is the wreck of a fishing boat which came to a sad and tragic end in more recent times. From here we sailed a short distance to the island of Ha’afeva. This was interesting and confronting as we explored a local village. The reality of the life of the pig was very evident as this large squealing pig was wheeled past in a wheel barrow. Obviously that night’s village dinner. From here we moved to one of the outer barrier islands Uonukuhihifo, where Nick had his first sample of strong winds requiring a night long anchor watch. 30+ knots with lots of reef around kept us vigilant all night!

Throughout our trip through the Ha’apai Roger had a nagging thought that we had failed to adequately clear out of Tongatapu for the inter island customs! It turned out that we had not done this properly and Roger feared some enormous fine or a night in jail. We visited the customs in Ha’apai and with a great showing of humble groveling for the situation. It was all too difficult for them at 3.30pm so he advised us to head north and solve the issue in the next group of islands. Rogers’s sleepless nights were to continue! Onwards to the next islands Vava’u!

Leaving New Zealand

GOODBYE NEW ZEALAND -  TONGA VIA MINERVA REEF

The sail from the Bay Of Islands to Menerva reef was some 840nm and roughly ¾ of the way to Tonga. We chose to break our journey effectivly giving us a bit of break to catch up on some sleep and give ourselves an experience that may prove hard to replicate else where.

Leaving New Zealand on a suuny morning, some 33 boats lined up for the effective start to the rally. Not a highly stressed event but it was still an impressive sight, we at last felt a if we were heading for the tropics. Light winds saw our blue asymetric sail flying which allowed us to pull away from some of the heavier and cumbersome cruising yachts. Roger was in his element! As day passed into night and the distance from land increased the seas become larger with an intermittent side chop, the positive for us was at least it was on the stern quarter and not a beat for a change! It took us less than 5 days to get to the reef and on our last night we had to reduce sail significantly allowing us to arrive at North Minerva in day light.

The passage through the entrance is not that narrow but it is quite something to enter into a circle of protective reef, blue flat water and a depth of only 25 meters when outside there are 5 meter waves and an ocean floor of several thousand! We anchored and enjoyed a restful 4 days waiting for the wind to move around from the north east which would allow us to set sail for Tonga.

We explored the reef taking the tender to the edge of the flattened surface which at high tide is covered by the pounding surf as the Pacific Ocean comes to an abrupt holt. The reef has built up on the rim of an extinct collapsed volcano or sea mount. The pounding is dramatic but not more so than looking out from the boat at night with no visible signs of this barrier and feeling that you are anchored in the middle of a vast ocean with the largest moon in recent times glowing down on the water! Quite surreal!

We departed the reef and had a fantastic 36 hour sail to Tongatapu Tonga arriving at 8.30am having negotiated the reefs into the lagoon. We anchored at “Big Mama’s Yacht Club’ and called in our arrival and awaited the arrival of customs and quarantine. This was a Saturday and we had negotiated for an early clearance so that Nick could join us as soon as possible. We had not appreciated that the following Sunday was mothers day! A significant cause for celebration! Any how at 5pm true to their word a boat pulled along side us. 4 large Tongan men boarded Dreamweaver and we went through the formalities. We had imagined some difficulties but the whole process was rapid with more talk about the rugby than anything else. Did we have drugs or fire arms? No! Then we would be glad to know that the islands were free from any communicable diseases and we were welcomed to Tonga! All too easy.

Nick has now joined us and we have eased into Tongan time and the pace of island life. We have explored the main town of this group of islands and tomorrow we set sail for a slow wander up through the other island groups. Sand, sea snorkeling and relaxing times ahead although it has taken over 6 weeks to get to this point!