Sailing the Island Groups of Tonga

Sailing the Island Groups of Tonga

Tonga is divided into three distinct island groups and there is roughly 65 nm between each of these areas. The islands of Ha’apai are the central archipelago and offer the classic pacific scenery of coral reefs azure blue and turquoise waters dotted with lush islands with fringing coral reefs. These have white sandy beaches and swaying coconut palms. Some have small resorts or villages on them but the many are un-inhabited with the population of Ha’apai being around 8000 people.

The people live an uncomplicated life, poor with very modest homes put together in a ramshackle way, lots and lots of pigs wandering about the place with the occasional goat or cow munching about in the bush. They live on fish and chicken supplemented by canned corned beef sent in from New Zealand and a surfeit of soft drinks. Rubbish is a major problem with much of our western based cans and plastics being left dumped around the villages. I felt the need to start up a clean up Tonga Day much like our clean up Aus day but of course who am I to dictate what should and shouldn’t happen here. However, much of the island group is very beautiful and it was impossible for the above issue to detract from this. In the distance towering peaks of still active volcanoes could be seen and the extensive barrier reefs and shallow lagoons made for good anchorages.

We visited several islands Nomuka’iki which is now uninhabited but was an old prison site. There were few remnants of its past only the plantations of mango trees gave a hint of previous settlement. On the beach is the wreck of a fishing boat which came to a sad and tragic end in more recent times. From here we sailed a short distance to the island of Ha’afeva. This was interesting and confronting as we explored a local village. The reality of the life of the pig was very evident as this large squealing pig was wheeled past in a wheel barrow. Obviously that night’s village dinner. From here we moved to one of the outer barrier islands Uonukuhihifo, where Nick had his first sample of strong winds requiring a night long anchor watch. 30+ knots with lots of reef around kept us vigilant all night!

Throughout our trip through the Ha’apai Roger had a nagging thought that we had failed to adequately clear out of Tongatapu for the inter island customs! It turned out that we had not done this properly and Roger feared some enormous fine or a night in jail. We visited the customs in Ha’apai and with a great showing of humble groveling for the situation. It was all too difficult for them at 3.30pm so he advised us to head north and solve the issue in the next group of islands. Rogers’s sleepless nights were to continue! Onwards to the next islands Vava’u!