Chesterfield Reef

Well we had been back in Noumea for several days and in the back of our minds we knew we needed to be thinking of heading west again, this time Australia was our destination and it would mean the end of a 6 month voyage. I hadn’t realised but Roger had a plan to extend our cruising destinations once more! It would require heading north west for an additional 250nm to Chesterfield Reef. What did I think of this idea? After all it would not add that much extra time to our overall sailing or at least that was how the proposal was made!

We knew several other sailing yachts that had visited this complex group of reefs though usually after departing from the top of the Vanuatu group of islands. Our route would see us sail up to the north of New Caledonia rather than heading west towards Australia. How could I refuse? We cleared customs and immigration without any problems and sailed out through the Dunbere Reef Pass  with sunshine and 15knots from the south east. Perfect conditions which saw us make a speedy 7 to 8 knots over the next 3 days. We used the asymmetric sail as the winds came more from the stern but on the whole it was an easy passage.  We approached the reef in less than perfect conditions and were cautious on entry, we had full cloud cover and some drizzle. We contemplated standing off until the morning but having good waypoints we made our way in to the complex and anchored safely behind the reef and one of the small island cays.

It is an amazing location. The ocean depth rises from being several thousand metres deep and as blue as the darkest sapphire a  to just 30 meters deep  and turquoise blue  as you sail into the complex, the sky is full of birds!  

We inflated the tender and motored to the island. Every piece of vegetation had birds nesting on its branches. Large blue beaked Boobies sitting on white fluffy chicks watching us with curiosity but not fear as we walked past. Thousands of terns nesting on the coral sand beaches took to the air as we toured the island, then in the air flying with supreme grace and agility black Frigate birds some with red pouches hanging from their necks displayed their aeronautical skills. It was an amazing sight and was well worth our sailing detour. As we walked around the island Roger contemplated a swim but was immediately deterred on seeing 4 reasonably large sharks in the shallows at the very point he had considered swimming!  The lagoon was home to dolphins that swam past Dreamweaver and humpbacked whales that had come into the shallow waters to give birth to their young. It was an amazing experience to visit this unique destination.

We spent 3 nights at Chesterfield before exiting the reef on the west side this time heading south west to Bundaberg Australia.